Olivia Peters
December 9, 2013
The
Problems with Coastal Erosion.
When
you go to the beach, what do you see? The obvious things are white sandy
coastlines, crystal clear water, tons of people playing around, and even some
animals, such as fish and birds. However, there is a problem many do not see.
More than 75 percent of the world’s beaches are suffering from coastal erosion.
“Coastal erosion is the process of wearing away material from a coastal profile
due to imbalance in the supply and export of material from a certain section.” (Marchland.
2007) Coastal erosion can be caused by numerous things but is mainly influenced
by hurricanes, transport gradients, loss of sand, protruding areas, marine
deposit shorelines, downstream erosion, sea level rise, subsidence, and natural
variance. Coastal erosion is not an occurrence limited to the United States. States
such as Massachusetts, Florida, and Rhode Island are certainly affected, but so
are North and West Africa, the United Kingdom, England, and Indonesia. Because
most homes and property are located on coastlines, humans have taken many
measures to control coastal erosion. These include beach nourishment,
bulkheads, groynes, geotextile tubes, and gabions. Coastal erosion doesn’t just
affect our homes though. Marine life, such as sea turtles and grunion are also
suffering. The world’s economy is also being affected. Because of coastal
erosion, fewer people are traveling to coastal towns, and that is directly
impacting their tourism-related economies. Unfortunately, man-made interventions to
coastal erosion often present more problems than they were initially thought to
solve.
In
order to understand the coastal erosion process, you must distinguish the
factors that interact with each other along the shoreline. On a geological time
scale, coastal evolution in sedimentary environments is dictated by the supply
and demand of the sediments. The supply is determined by the availability of
the sand and the transport ability of water and wind. The demand of the coast
is determined by the rate of sea level rise and the geology of the coastal
plain. As stated previously, coastal erosion is the process of wearing away
material from a coastal plain due to the imbalance in the supply and export of
material from a certain section. “It takes place in the form of scouring in the
foot of the cliffs or dunes or at the subtidal foreshore. Coastal erosion takes
place mainly during strong winds, high waves and high tides and storm surge
conditions, and results in coastline retreat and loss of land.” (Marchland. 2007.)
Coastal erosion become a problem when there is no room to harbor change.
Sandy
beaches provide a natural barrier between ocean and land, but because the sand
is so lightweight and weak, the beaches change and move through the actions of
waves, winds, and currents. There are many causes of beach erosion. Some are
hurricanes, transport gradients, loss of sand, protruding areas, marine deposit
shorelines, downstream erosion, sea level rise, subsidence, and natural
variance. When a hurricane comes in, especially one with speeds up to or
exceeding 111 miles per hour, it changes the component of the beach; the beach
is thrown into total chaos (Sallenger.) Dunes are the first defense mechanism
against storms on the beach. Because we place so many structures on the
beachfront, the dunes are weakened, making them less resilient. When a normal
storm comes, the beaches reform themselves to accommodate the change in
atmosphere. When a hurricane, tsunami, or typhoon arrives, with speeds doubling
those of a regular storm, the beaches are unable to cope.
Transport
gradients increase erosion by moving the gradients in the direction of the net
transport. This can be due to gradients in the wave conditions at certain
stretches, particular bathymetric conditions, or a curved coastline.
Loss
of sand, while seeming redundant, is also a major contributor to coastal
erosion. Breaching and over washing is the loss of sand inland due to “failure
of the beach head allowing flooding by tidal action.” (Marine Biodiversity
Wiki. 2008.) The coast also loses copious amounts of sand during extreme storm
surge and wave conditions. The storm surges cause offshore movement of sand due
to an unbalanced equilibrium in the coast’s geology. The strong waves cause the
sand bars to move towards the sea. Also, if there is a canyon close to a
transport coastline, sand may travel into the canyon and be lost from the
beach.
Coastal
erosion also occurs when material is lost from a protruding area. It mostly
happens when sandstone headlands at the tip of deltas do not receive enough
material from the river due to natural shifting of river alignment.
Erosion
is also caused when marine deposits are suspended between sections of semi-hard
protruding coastlines. The shape of these shorelines is dependent on the
presence of semi-hard sections and wave climate.
Beach
erosion also occurs downstream of accumulative forms. Along a coastline with
oblique wave approaches, the tendency is for the sand spit formation to travel
parallel to the coast. The sand shifts offshore, which causes the downstream
coastline to erode.
As
global sea levels rise, erosion increases. “An increasing sea level will cause
shoreline setback, which is approximately equal to the sea level rise divided
by the slope of the active coastal profile, when considering equilibrium
profiles. (Marine Biodiversity Wiki. 2008.)”
Subsidence
is another cause of beach erosion. Subsidence lowers the surface of the sand.
It can be caused by natural measures such as the settling of soft sediments, tectonic
activity, or it can be caused by humans when we engage in invasive occupations
such as drilling for oil or populating the coast with structures. Subsidence
acts the same way as sea level rise. Unlike sea level rise, however, which is a
gradual and slow process, subsidence may occur rapidly.
Natural
variation in the supply of sand can also cause coastal erosion. Droughts in
river basins can result in long periods of decreasing sand on the shore (Marine
Biodiversity Wiki. 2008.)
With
beach erosion quickly becoming a dangerous consequence of life on earth, people
have been studying it and searching for a way to prevent it. Some preventative
measures include beach renourishment, bulkheads (also known as retaining
walls), groynes, geotextile tubes, and gabions.
“Beach
renourishment is the process of dumping or pumping sand from elsewhere onto an
eroding shoreline to create a new beach or to widen the existing beach.” While
renourishment doesn’t stop erosion, it slows down the process. The waves erode
the nourished sand instead of houses or roads. Renourishment is often suggested
when beach erosion threatens to remove an existing beach and potentially harm
the property beyond it. The renourishment process will only function if it is
publicly funded, as it is somewhat costly and will need to be replaced. There
are many advantages with renourishment. It widens and restores recreational
beaches, the structures behind the beach are protected, and it is a lot safer than
other methods like bulkheads and gabions in that there are no permanent hazards
left on the beach or within surf zone. There are some drawbacks, though. Beach
nourishment sand actually erodes faster than the natural sand. It is also very
expensive, usually costing a few million dollars. Because it has to be
replenished, the price can escalate up to over 100 million dollars. Nourishment
turns the beach into a construction zone, making it unable to be used. The sand
added to the beach is almost always different from the original sand and
because of the difference, it can change the surf conditions and bars on the
beach. The most detrimental consequence of nourishment is the nourished sand
can damage and hurt marine life and the beach itself. The bulldozers carrying
the sand can crush organisms, the sand can bury marine life, it can change the
shape of the beach, and even make the water too muddy. This can harm the habitats
of organisms such as plants, insects, turtles, and birds. (Beach Nourishment
Basics)
Bulkheads
are also a common practice for controlling beach erosion. Most commonly
referred to as an armoring wall, a bulkhead is a manmade structure constructed
along shorelines that acts as a barrier against waves. These walls actually
cause more damages to the beaches, though. When waves reflect off the
bulkheads, they scour away sediments and cause the erosion to increase. When
long stretches of beach are lined with bulkheads, the beaches that are composed
of fine sediments can erode to just gravel within a few decades. Bulkheads also
shut off the supply of sand and gravel to the beach, causing the beach to lose
its finer sediments. When bulkheads are built, overhanging shrubs and trees are
often removed. This can endanger marine life, reduce organic matter, and
increase siltation. It also reduces shade and shelter along the beach, reducing
the spawning habitat (Schlender.)
A
groyne is another popular way to control beach erosion. “A groyne is an active
structure extending from shore into sea.” It catches and traps parts of
sediment that are moving into the surf zone. Groynes are frequently used,
however, they do have unfavorable effects. Because the protection of only one
groyne is insignificant, they are usually designed in groups. Between the
groynes, large masses of water accumulate, causing erosion of the seabed
(Pruzak.)
“The
geotextile tube technology is mainly used for flood and water control, but they
are also used to prevent beach erosion, and for shore protection and
environmental applications.” Because these tubes are cost effective and easy to
install, they are good alternatives to hydraulic and coastal structures. They
are most commonly used with a barrier and are placed under the wall to help
stabilize it (Shin. 2007.)
Gabions
are another alternative to controlling beach erosion. They are wire mesh
baskets filled with crushed rock. However they are flexible, they can absorb
partial wave and wind energy, reducing scouring problems. However, they are not
durable enough to withstand regular direct wave action, so they are restricted
to the upper part of the beaches. This placement provides protection from
backshore erosion. Gabions need to be repaired often to make them viable to
make them something more than just a short term solution. They can also become
dangerous if not properly repaired. If the cobbles (crushed rock) are released
from a broken gabion, then it can accelerate damage to local baskets. They also
disrupt the natural landform, modify dune habitats, and can result in dune face
scour at the ends (Brampton, Motyka, Coates. 2000.)
Because
coastal erosion is such a widespread problem, people all over the world are
affected by it. In the United Sates, coastal erosion affects, but is not
limited to, Massachusetts, Florida, and Rhode Island. It also affects other
countries such as, North and West Africa, Norfolk, Suffolk, England, and
Indonesia.
Massachusetts
is becoming a major erosion zone. The southwest shore of Nantucket is eroding
at a rate of 10 to 12 feet per year. We begin to grasp the scope of what 10 to
12 feet per year looks like when comparing it to Humarock Beach, which had an
erosion rate of only two feet per year in 1950 to 1998. In Massachusetts’ case
though, long term erosion is not the sole issue. For instance, Springhill beach
in Sandwich has huge episodic, storm-induced erosion, which results in major
losses of homes near the shore (Focal Points. 2001).
In
cases like Florida, you may have a beautiful beachfront property but no beach.
Most of the soil in Florida is a sand and limestone mixture. Because these
materials are not compact, they easily erode. Out of the 1,240 kilometers of
beach, approximately 195 kilometers have already been eroded. Florida’s dunes are
the only major defense against storms because they act as a barrier between the
storm waves and coastal development. Even with these natural barriers, the
coast has still undergone massive coastal erosion. This has resulted in
narrowing beaches that are uninhabitable for public use. In 1992, reports
produced by the Florida Department of Natural Resources classified 65 percent
of west Florida beaches as “critical erosion areas.” Because of this, many
beaches have established nourishment projects. In 1992, Congress instructed the
U.S. Geological Survey (USGS) to participate in a 5-year study of west coast
Florida’s barrier island. This was to help them understand the geological
history of the barrier island, specifically the process of carrying sediments
on the inner shelf. The west coast barrier island sits near a gentle sloping
carbonate platform. Its bottom consists of a limestone bedrock, with quartz and
carbonate lying on top. Limestone is an easily erodible sediment. The USGS also
discovered that the sediments aren’t evenly distributed along the continental
shelf. There are only certain areas of an adequate thickness to withstand or
resist erosion while the less populated sediments are more prone to erosion
(U.S. Department of the Interior).
In
1938, Sakonnet Point was the most seaward point in Rhode Island, hosting large
sand dunes that stood up to 4.6 meters high. Today, they are almost completely
submerged under a high tide due to major storms and sea level rise (Coastal Erosion).
In
the northwest coast of Africa, the average rate of erosion is between one to
two meters per year. Locally, however, rates of up to hundreds of meters per
year have been observed, especially when man is trying to prevent it. In West
Africa, erosion has been strikingly detrimental to their living. They have
problems with salinization of water and soil, depletion of ecosystems, and
massive flooding. This has been adverse to their gross domestic product, since
most of their income comes from fishing, tourism, and commerce (Barbiere. 2012).
Happisburg
in Norfolk, is on the coast of the North Sea. It was small village, home to
about 600 houses, and was actually quite a distance from the sea. Records show
that over 250 meters of land were eroded between 1600 and 1850. The town is
mainly affected by massive flooding, which accounts for most of its eroding.
Coastal erosion prevention has been put into place, and even succeeded in
controlling the problem, but is now in need of repair because it is no longer
performing its job correctly. This town’s tourism rate is directly affected by
its beaches, and because these beaches are eroding, tourism has significantly
dropped (Coastal Erosion at Happisburg, Norfolk).
“The
Suffolk coastline of East Anglia has been eroding for 1000's of years and
suffers rapid and frequent change- the changes are due to the coastal process
of erosion and deposition and the large scale movement of material down the
coast by longshore drift.” Dunwich is a small village on the coast of Suffolk.
While once a thriving port, storms, floods, and coastal erosion have almost
destroyed the little town. Its coastlines are made up of soft rock (a mixture
of sand, gravel, and clay) that make it highly erodible. It also suffers from a
narrow beach, and its cliff faces are greatly affected by weathering. In 1990,
seven meters were demolished over just a few days by a storm that hit the
coast. Dunwich is one of the most extreme examples of how coastal erosion can
affect a town (Chambers. 2007).
The
Holderness coastline on the east coast of England, near the Humber Estuary, is
the “fastest eroding” coastline in Europe because of its soft clay cliffs and
strong waves. In this case, artificial measures to try and keep the erosion at
bay have only sped up the process because they starve the beach of its sand
making it more vulnerable (SA.)
Indonesia
also battles coastal erosion. Denpasar City has lost 62 percent of its
shorelines in the last 20 years. That is equivalent to 10 of its 16 kilometers
of shoreline. Along with Granyar Regency, their population’s main sources of
income are primarily dependent on their exotic beaches. These destinations are
quite attractive to the rich Indonesians that want beachfront properties to avoid
the chaos of inner city life (Suriyani. 2010.)
Not
only does beach erosion affect our homes and lives, it also has a direct
correlation to sea turtle population. It is not just the erosion that affects
the turtles. Another major contributor to the sea turtle problem is our man-made
structural attempts to prevent the coastal erosion. “What many do not realize
is that these man-made structures prevent sea turtles from continuing their
innate life cycles.” The construction of sea walls, for instance, interferes
with sea turtle nesting because they change the shape of the beach. These
coastal structures threaten sea turtles by reducing nesting habitat locations
and forcing them to nest in dangerous areas. “Although armoring is intended to
decrease sand erosion and, therefore protect the beach, studies show that areas
protected by armoring are more likely to create more severe erosion by interrupting
natural sand shifts.” So while our human habitats are being protected, the sea
turtles’ are not. Studies have proven that fewer turtles crawl onto beaches
with beach erosion protection, and the fewer turtles that do crawl near the sea
walls often return to the water without nesting. This is known as a false
crawl. Because they do not nest, the sea turtle population decreases. Beach nourishment
also causes a huge problem with sea turtle nesting. Because the nourished sand
has a different consistency than natural beaches, the beach becomes unsuitable
for nesting. The nourished sand is unusable because it is too compact for
animals to nest in (Information about Sea Turtles: Threats from Coastal
Armoring. 2013).
Grunion are another example of marine life affected by
coastal erosion. Grunion spawning occurs from March through August, with it
peaking in May. They leave the water and spawn on the beaches. For four nights,
beginning on full moons, spawning occurs after high tides and last for several
hours. The female has to twist her body and dig into the sand until she is half
buried. She then deposits her eggs, and then the male comes to release his
milt. When coastal erosion prevention happens, such as armoring walls or
nourishment, it increases the difficulty for the grunion to spawn. The armoring
walls prevent the fish from finding the perfect location, and the nourishment makes
it almost impossible for the females to dig their holes because the sand is too
compact, just like with the sea turtles. In the rare occurrence that the eggs
are released, and the eggs hatch, the nourished sand makes it harder for the
newly hatched grunion to swim back to the ocean (California Grunion Facts and
Runs).
Because most of the population of this world lives on
some sort of coastline, beach erosion plays a huge part in how we live. Not
only does it affect our homes, but it effects our economic status and way of
life as well. In the United States alone, approximately 350,000 structures are
located within 500 feet of coastline. Most likely, about 87,000 of these
structures will erode into the ocean or Great Lakes in the next 60 years. Based
on current coastal property loss estimates, during this period, coastal
property owners will pay an average of 530 million dollars per year in erosion related
damages (Focal Points. 2001).That’s almost 32 billion dollars just in erosion
related damages. In addition to that, the Federal Government spends about 150
million dollars every year on shoreline erosion control, just as beach
renourishment. A Heinz Center study discovered that erosion may claim one out
of every four houses that lie within 500 feet of the shoreline by 2050
(Rabenold. 2013.)
In
Ghana, spending money on beach erosion prevention would be costly, but it would
actually strengthen the economy. Since most of Ghana’s income comes from
tourism, industry, and fishing, fixing the erosion problem would improve these
sources of income. The beaches would be more populated because they would be in
better condition, and the fishing would be better because the fish could go
back to their semi natural habitat (Sea Defense and Erosion Project, Ghana).
Texas has some of the highest beach erosion rates in the
country. 64 percent of the Texas coast is eroding at an average rate of six
feet per year while some locations lose up to 30 feet per year. Because of this
erosion, Texas property values decrease, tourism suffers, homes are sometimes
lost, and the local economies suffer the consequences (Pinchback).
California also has beach erosion problems that affect
its economy. Since California is mainly coast, their tourist traffic is always
high. According to an economic analysis performed by California Research Bureau
for the Resource Agency, California’s tourism contributed 9.9 billion dollars to
the state’s economy in 1992. In 1995, the California Department of Boating and
Waterways estimated that Californians spent 3.4 billion dollars on day trips to
the beach in a single year (http://resources.ca.gov/ocean/97Agenda/Chap5Erosion.html).
Tourism rates, however, have fallen due to the recent coastal erosion problems.
This is because the eroded beaches are almost always under construction. The
unsightly armoring walls and gabions scattering the beaches detract from a
peaceful vacation.
While initially proposing to prevent and correct
shoreline erosion, the reality is that the solutions cause more problems. As
the examples have shown, every nation that has employed interventions for
coastal erosion ended up hastening the coastal erosion process, encroaching on
nature, and thereby further endangering their own economies. In light of what I
have discovered in preparing this paper, I find it to be the best interest of
nature and man to allow the coastal erosion process take its natural course.
“When He established the heavens, I was there,
When He inscribed a circle on the face of the deep,
When He made firm the skies above,
When the springs of the deep became fixed,
When He set for the sea its boundary
So that the water would not transgress His command,
When He marked out the foundations of the earth;
Then I was beside Him, as a master workman;
And I was daily His delight,
Rejoicing always before Him,” (Proverbs 8:27-30)
When He inscribed a circle on the face of the deep,
When He made firm the skies above,
When the springs of the deep became fixed,
When He set for the sea its boundary
So that the water would not transgress His command,
When He marked out the foundations of the earth;
Then I was beside Him, as a master workman;
And I was daily His delight,
Rejoicing always before Him,” (Proverbs 8:27-30)
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